APEX PREDATORS & TUKTUKS

Warning This post  deals with shark attack, snakes and tuktuks. If you are not happy about any of these subjects please stop reading now. Also it is a little longer than the usual post.

AGAINST ALL THE ODDS TWICE

Before setting off on our travels anywhere, I’ll often look for the lists of poisonous snakes or whether crocodiles frequent the local lagoons, what fatal tropical diseases might infect us and which kind of spiders might be lurking under the bed. It’s not that I’m truly concerned by them but more that they fascinate me as we don’t have to deal with them back home in Britain.

The fact of the matter is that these  creatures are usually difficult to find or see, even if you are specifically looking for them. To be bitten or attacked by one is far from likely. On the other hand the severity of the consequences of an attack could be nasty to fatal. If we assess this risk logically rather than emotionally we find all of the above to be low to medium risks at worst.

Sri Lanka has one of the highest death rates per capita due to snake bite in the world. On our travels we’ve seen the grand total of only 5 snakes. The only venomous one couldn’t get away from us fast enough, much to my disappointment. I only managed a blurry photo of a 2m long cobra.

The traffic overseas offers far higher risks when just crossing the road or taking a ride in a bus or a tuk-tuk for that matter.

Tuktuk quizzes by.
Tuktuk wizzes past.

It’s quite likely that you may be involved in a road traffic accident whilst travelling. The severity of these accidents can obviously be high to fatal. Making these risks medium to high

Road traffic interactions are so common place however that we often don’t give them a second thought.

Two nasty situations have occurred so far during our stay here in Sri Lanka that most certainly could have resulted in serious injury or death. Both as it happens passed without injury. The odd thing is that one incident plays heavily on my mind whilst the other has  faded away quickly.

The first and least memorable of the two was when our  tuktuk driver crashed head on with a motor bike. How no one was hurt I have no idea. Did I even think twice before getting into the next tuktuk? No did I heck. The chances of it happening again are not unlikely given the crazed driving habits of Sri Lankan tuktuk drivers.

Second of the two was a little more harrowing. I had a brief but significant interaction with a large fish…

There are no sharks in the lagoon
There are no sharks in the lagoon

I was riding my foilboard or kite hydrofoil  out in the sea next to Kappalady lagoon. Whilst attempting a foil tack I fell from my board.  Several seconds later whilst about to bodydrag I received a heavy blow to my thigh from beneath. The force of which left me shocked and confused for a short time.  This confusion was ended when a 2m long shark breached right next to me.  At the realisation of what was happening to me, that ever useful and delicious neurotransmitter adrenalin kicked in hard. My board was several meters away which I needed back on my feet pronto. The few metres bodydragging to my foilboard felt like an eternity spent as a giant fishing lure expecting another attack at any moment. More or less safely back on my board the fear induced adrenalin was still at its peak as a result I have never returned to shore so fast, with such purpose or with such jelly legs. The guys on the beach listened to my story with looks of disbelief however they could also see that I was pretty agitated.  Fortunately the impact left me with only a bruised thigh, two holes in my shorts and a revised sense of my mortality.

I’d researched, spiders, snakes, leopards, bears, dengue and malaria but I forgot all about the sharks. Apparently there are 60 known species that are found around Sri Lanka – Attacks happen but are uncommon.

So the improbable happened to me twice in the same incident. A direct full speed strike from a shark and not a drop of blood spilled. Perhaps I should buy a lottery ticket.

The probability that I will be attacked by a shark again is extremely remote even though I play with my hydrofoil in the sharks environment frequently. So why does this incident burn into the psyche so much more than the tuktuk accident?

Is it because it reminds us that we are not truly the number one we so often think that we are? .

Is it familiarity?  We are so accustomed to road traffic we just accept it. Where as our interactions with snakes, sharks etc. are so infrequent that their risks rings greater alarm bells in our imagination.

Or is it that these animals are mostly unseen lurking in the depths or the long grass? Their strikes being unpredictable and their presence being left to the imagination.

Maybe they trigger a primal fear in us that lingers from when we were once listed on the menu.

One thing that is for certain is that we are terrible at assessing risk in our everyday lives.

Another certainty is that I will not forget the image of the shark as it pierced the water alongside me and leapt into the air as I floated in the indian ocean attached to a kite.  As an ocean lover and kitesurfer this leaves me in a bit of a quandary.

Logic or emotion?

Right bed time for me as it’s windy and hopefully I’ll be out on the ocean again tomorrow.

The outcome

This happened a couple of weeks ago but I resisted posting until I’d had time to reflect on the shark incident.

I kited the very next day but in the lagoon not the sea.

I kited in the sea  one week ago without a second thought however in a different place and with a twintip board.

I went to kite the sea on the hydrofoil at the same place as the attack happened and emotion was hard to overcome. My legs were like jelly for the first five minutes and my usual falls were considerably more exciting than normal.

I did however face the fear and got to ride some lovely waves with the foilboard for the first time ever.

 

 

 

 

Kappalady Lagoon

We’ve been getting some amazing winds here in Sri Lanka at Kappalady lagoon and Vella Island.

Here are a couple of new tricks we’ve been working on.

Cathy’s Pop to Blind with Ole Downloop Transition and Toeside backroll

Cathy has been riding blind for a long time now but this transition out of it looks sweet. I need to get this one in the bag too.

Double Backroll to Toeside Downloop Transition

I saw Patrick doing something similar in Holbox, then saw Zac Andrews doing them here in Kappalady and figured that I needed to learn. Not perfect but getting there. Sticking a tailgrab on the invert should be nice and throwing my head and shoulders back further.

Axis Limited
Double Back to Toeside at Kappalady Lagoon

 

Backroll Nose Grab

Cathy manages this nicely on the 7m Rally, I try and get some better shots or video of this soon.

Cathy grabs her nose at Vella Island
Cathy grabs her nose at Vella Island

 

 

 

Beach Slide – Darkslide on the beach

Ok I’ve been darksliding for a while but this is the first time  over the sand. Inspired by Catching trade winds video and local rider Nalin. My lovely board stood up to the abuse but really didn’t deserve it.

Jonny Smith darkslides the beach at kappalady lagoon, Sri Lanka on axis limited.
Jonny Smith darkslides the beach at kappalady lagoon, Sri Lanka on axis limited.

 

Boards – Lost, Found and Rescued

Kite Boards are sometimes lost at sea, usually this can be prevented even without using a board leash.

Check out our new series : Boards – Lost, Found and Rescued

In this series we show you how to not lose your board in the first place. If you lost your board, how to find it again and lastly how to recover someone elses board.

Boards: Lost, Found and Recovered

Part I – Don’t Lose it.

Part II – You Lost it?

Part III – Kite Board Rescue – Earn a free beer

 

 

 

 

Light winds give a big surprise – Fishing

Full moon in Sri Lanka means two things. You can’t  buy alcohol and the wind will stop… The first one is true as it is a public holiday or poya day. I think the second one is anecdotal and coincidental. I can’t see any scientific reason that the moon could have such a significant effect on the wind here, where it barely has any effect on the water. However stop, the wind did, giving further confirmatory evidence to the believers.

Cathy just chilled while I dug out the fishing gear.

For those not interested in fishing I apologise, this may be a bit boring and I’d recommend skipping through the pictures only. If you’re a fisherman read on.

Kappalady is surrounded by the Lacadive ocean which looks to be brimming with fish but the shore break was too much for my little spinning outfit that always travels with me. I tried the main kite lagoon to no avail but on a tip off from Naleem and Chamra I thought I’d give the freshwater lagoon  a try.

Access was tricky as the lake is surrounded by bushes and palm trees which lead me to worring about snakes and crocs. Within ten minutes I had seen my first snake, silently swimming towards me. Only a tiny water snake but in the fading light it was enough to fuel my concerns further. As I was making my twentieth final cast I saw something long, silver and fast chase my lure. Quickly I cast again to the same area and received another chase but no connection… For me that was more than enough to inspire a return visit.

The next afternoon saw me back at the lake. I found a lovely access point atop a large sand dune just next to where the fish were chasing the day before.

I selected a reliable white and pink grub and cast out. My second cast was immediately intercepted by an aggressive strike, The rod doubled over into a fierce fighting arc but still the fish was taking line.  I turned the fish but then disaster struck. As it turned the line was severed with a clean cut. Frustrating but exciting as that was a big fish.

New lure attached and I was back in the game and quickly hooked into a silver torpedo, not with the same power as the first fish but its speed and explosive jumps made up for it. I could barely believe it a fish I often chase in Holbox, was also present in this lagoon. A tarpon was soon on the bank. Not a big one but a start.

Baby Tarpon caught at Kitekuda. It wasn't the big one that got away but it was a start.
Baby Tarpon caught at Kitekuda. It wasn’t the big one that got away but it was a start.

 

Next day I awoke really early with dreams of what the big fish could’ve been. No wind again. Off I went for a day break session.

I returned to my dune, if it isn’t broke don’t fix it as they say. I was busy throwing a Rapala X-Rap in silver and red when I received an almighty take. The rod doubled exactly as it had the day before and the reel started to scream. Adrenalin rushes before breakfast are hard to find but this one woke me up well and truly. The fish was clearly in no mood for stopping and headed straight for the far bank. The rod I was using though small has some back bone to it and my reel was loaded with 20lb fireline so I was surprised I couldn’t stop the fish. I eventually managed to turn the fish and gain some line only for this to repeat itself three times. Eventually I caught a glimpse of the scales shining bronze through the water. It was big and not a tarpon… Barramundi hadn’t crossed my mind until I saw it shape. A fish on my wish list since I visited Thailand in 20I2 .

Some last minute runs under the overhanging spikey cactus tree worried me but eventually she rolled over and up the bank she came. A 25lb specimen Barramundi, my first and much bigger than I was hoping for.

Barramundi caught on an x-rap lure in the lagoon near Kappalady, Kalpitya, Sri Lanka
Barramundi caught on an x-rap lure in the lagoon near Kappalady, Kalpitya, Sri Lanka

 

The guys at the camp couldn’t believe it when they saw it, Mawfeer got particularly excited.Apparantly the most desired fish to eat in Sri Lanka.  A barbecue was planned, no need for Nilanka to go to the market to buy food today.

Mawfeer thinks the barramundi would work as a gun
Mawfeer thinks the barramundi would work as a gun

After lunch I went back down to the lake just to explore and enjoy the tranquillity. I found another little access point and was quickly blessed with another baby tarpon about the same size as the other.

Casting around I saw a flat spot near the lakeside that looked like a fish had just moved. I cast past it and jerked the x-rap back along the drop. I was treated to seeing another huge barramundi drift up below my lure and engulf it literally 6 feet from where I was standing.

The fight was just as violent as the one from the morning, lasting a good ten minutes. The spot was more open and with less bankside cover, there was less drama bringing it to shore.

Another Barramundi of similar size to the first lay gleaming on the bank. Having already taken more than sufficient to feed everyone I released this one back into the lagoon. This was much to the disgust of all the locals at the camp.

Barramundi Dos - The second and somewhat unexpected barramundi.
Barramundi Dos – The second and somewhat unexpected barramundi.

What an amazing few days of fishing. Barramundi are one of the tastiest fish I’ve eaten and the first one fed twelve of us with leftovers. They are also without a doubt one of the most powerful fish I’ve managed to catch. Not as fast as a tarpon or bone fish but persistent and forceful. Hopefully I’ll get another chance at one soon.

Coming soon..

Temples, Monkeys and old ruins.

Kiting at Kappalady – Voyage to Vella Island

A two hour car journey from Negombo saw us passing lagoons, rivers and lakes. I was getting excited about the fishing and already.

The journey showed us quickly the true pecking order of the road. Cyclists are very clearly the lowest, followed by cars, then trucks, then tuktuk and at the top of the pile buses.  Sri Lankan buses will stop for nothing except passengers. We’d considered taking a tuk tuk but the eggshell fragility of them combined with the crazy driving put us off. Great in town, long journeys no way.

We finally drew close to our destination – Kitekuda –http://srilankakiteschool.com/ near the Kapalady lagoon. Google Maps was our guide and it kindly sent us the back route down sandy paths much to the horror of our driver. A 4×4 would’ve been more useful than his brand new hybrid. A few signs to the Kitekuda camp would’ve been handy too.

raley to wrapped
Angry Louis – Get out of my way

As we arrived we were greeted by our old friend John Clark.  John had been staying at Kitekuda for a while and had recommended it to us. Zak, Nils, Ola, Maufeer and Nilanka were our hosts and promptly made us welcome with an impressive lunch. The wind was up so lunch was wolfed down in a hurry, boards assembled and then a short walk showed us what we’d been waiting for. A beautiful flat lagoon, 5 kiters and about 20 knots.  Happy days.  Incredible first day. Good winds, good vibes and great food.

Back to toeside
Jonh Clarke popping a nice back to toeside at Vella island.

Back at Kitekuda camp, Nilanka, and his team had rustled up a fantastic selection of curries, sides and rice all washed down with a can of special brew… which was unfortunately the only thing the local booze shop had to offer. Tramp juice and curry – yum.

Talk at the dinner table was all about a Kite safari programmed for the next day.

We hadn’t planned on going anywhere, having only just arrived but a few pictures and videos later we were signed up for a two day trip to Vella island via Dream Spot.

Leeward side of vella island sri lanka.
Leeward side of vella island Sri Lanka.

 

Kitekuda have a beautiful Kite boat, sporting  twin Yamaha 90 engines. This rib was sure to fly.

We started the journey to Vella from Kalpitya lagoon. Kalpitya is the larger Kite lagoon in the area with more space but with gustier winds. Still looked pretty awesome but Kapalady is quieter and has a much shorter walk to the beach.

The rib absolutely flew with Nils at the helm who expertly navigated the surprisingly shallow lagoon. Twenty minutes later we arrived at dream spot.

John prepares for another pants session...
John prepares for another pants session…

A sand bar separated our play area from the sea, giving nice flat water with enough depth for my hydrofoil. Winds were unfortunately lower than expected but perfect for foilboarding. I had done quite a bit of research about foilboarding in Sri Lanka but couldn’t find much out. Dream spot works.  Foiling was easy here with winds so smooth and water so flat. I even  pulled off some nice foiling tacks. The water here  is deep enough to foil even with a few touchdowns. I ripped about for an hour or so until the others gave up. Their hearts were only for Vella And the wind  was a bit light so off we went. Dream spot is good but we were about to find out why the others were so eager to get to vella.

Vella island is a narrow but long sand bar, occupied only by fishermen and the odd kiter. The leeward side of the island has butter flat water tight against the shoreline, mix that with 20 knot winds and you understand why we made the trip. 10m edge and darkslide paradise.

Axis Limited, Vella Island, Sri Lanka
Darksliding the butter at Vella Island on the Axis Limited.

It was incredible to blast those flats with the rest of the group. Everyone was pushing hard and using the exceptional conditions for some good progression. John was really getting to grips with riding blind. Cathy was after a front to blind. Angry Louis was showing pure determination to nail his raley to blind. Omrii was getting to grips with jumping and Harry the backrolls.

Vella
Smile for the camera, john riding blind at Vella island, Sri Lanka
Cathy performing the classic foot out at vella island, on her axis division and slingshot rally 7m
Cathy performing the classic foot out at vella island, on her axis division and slingshot rally 7m
Learnt to jump - Not too shabby
Learnt to jump – Not too shabby

Mawfeer threw himself into the mix with some crazy aggressive front roll kiteloops and interesting front loops popped from the beach. Maufeer is a great local rider to watch and is non stop comedy on and off the water.

Crazy boy on and off the water.
Crazy boy on and off the water.

Our digs for the night was an open sided fisherman’s hut which had space for at least 10. All of us were pretty broken and silence soon enveloped the camp. Apart from the 20 knots of wind howling all around us and the hourly visit from the local hounds.

Time to rest
Time to rest

 

The morning saw us rise with the sun and with the water all to ourselves it would’ve been rude not to have a blast before breakfast. Each of us had moments where we were the only one kiting in this paradise. It took about 90 seconds to rip from the tip of the island to the point where it bears off slightly downwind.

Jonny cruises the Vella flats at sunset all alone.
Jonny cruises the Vella flats at sunset all alone.

 

As you scream along the slicks inches from the beach the local fisherman are busy at work fixing their nets right alongside.

axis division
Cathy with nose grab at vella island, axis kiteboarding.

 

Tired from the kiting it was time to take the camera out.

The sun and too much kiting had obviously taken its toll on John. He was walking about in his underwear, muttering about tan lines. Next thing he was off kiting in the same attire. His riding was even better than the previous day though a couple of crashes saw some near lens shattering wardrobe malfunctions. Cathy was managing a few nice darkslides, omrii was boosting and Mawfeer was up to mischief as usual.

pointy toes, toby style, airstyle
John styles out a nice foot out – only in his underwear

I went for a wander to watch the fisherman at work. I asked permission before every photo and always received the head waggle. My head waggle understanding was still at the same basic level as in Negombo. Waggle means yes, I hope…

head wobble vella island sri lanka
Can I take your photo please, head wobble, OK
Local fishing vessels at vella island srilanka
Local fishing vessels at vella island srilanka

The windward beach of the island was deserted apart from an army of nervous crabs scurrying along the shoreline.

Crab at Vella Island Sri Lanka
I’ve got my eye on you
Crabby
Only us, the fisherman and some menacing crabs on vella island sri lanka

An armada of kiters from another camp descended downwind onto our little paradise so it was time to leave and let them enjoy the butter too.

What a trip. Thanks to Nils and Mawfeer at Kitekuda for organising it.

If anyone wants to do a trip to vella island I would recommend getting in touch with Nils at Kitekuda – http://srilankakiteschool.com/

I highly recommend it.

Coming up

Light winds throw up a big surprise.